Are their different types of sewing "strings" to use for different fabrics?
I'm fairly new to sewing, but a personal situation has caused me to need to experiment with it.
And before I go buying typical sewing machine and gear, I want to find out if there are different grades or types of string to use for thicker fabrics or wet-suit like fabrics. It would seem that in a fabric that is meant to be stretchy to some degree that maybe a different sewing string would be needed as well.
Does anyone know? Or know of a site that explains anything like this?
Thanks for your help.
- Sewing Newbie
"String" is called "thread" in the sewing world. The sort of thread and machine you need is going to be dependent on the fabrics you're using and the type of seam you're going to construct.
If you're mainly going to be sewing neoprene or many layers of heavy cordura, you're definitely going to need a machine that handle those sorts of fabrics. Often for casual use, it's the old home straight stitch sewing machines; in some cases, industrial machines. Required reading for you -- Penny Schwyn's excellent website: http://www.specialtyoutdoors.com
You MUST MUST MUST bring samples of the fabrics you want to sew when you go to try out machines... that's rule 1 of machine buying.
Yes, there are different types of thread, and the differences are in the method of construction of the thread (spun, plied, corespun), the fibers (cotton, polyester, nylon, kevlar, mixed fiber), S or Z twist, the diameter (home sewing machines are typically confined to using fairly fine threads -- something like Nylon 69, used for upholstery, will tear up a home machine in nothing flat). Choice of thread depends on fabric and seam construction. Starters:
http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/aa102100a.htm
http://www.amefird.com/ (particularly the technical and troubleshooting info)
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/thread_sizes.html
But where you probably really need to start is with my standard beginner sewing machine sermon:
---------------
read:
http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm
What I want for beginners in sewing:
- a machine that doesn't scare you
- a machine that isn't balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable --
just too frustrating to learn on!)
- very good straight stitch
- good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
- a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
- adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
- accessory presser feet that don't cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)
If the budget stretches far enough:
- blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
- triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
- a couple of decorative stitches (you won't use them nearly as
much as you think)
- electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds -- mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.
Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You'll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem -- often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you're trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.
Suggested reading: John Giordano's The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles' Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen's Owner's Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.
Used brands I'd particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota
New "bargain brand" I'd probably pick if it had to be a new, budget machine: Janome (who also does Kenmore).
------------
My experience with sewing machine shops, especially the smaller ones, is that they're not going to try to push you to a machine that's inappropriate for the stuff you want to sew -- if your wants are clearly explained. They may well show you a number of ugly but serviceable used machines -- in fact, my first impulse is to tell you to look for a Singer 201, but that is a straight stitch only machine.
Read, talk, try, think, then buy.
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