pattern weights sewing

pattern weights sewing
What exactly is interfacing in relation to sewing?

I just bought my very first sewing machine and my first pattern. It is for a simple wrap dress. It calls for 1 1/4 yards of 22" - 25" lightweight fusible interfacing. What is it? what is it for? what is the difference between 22" and 25" (other than 3 inches)? what exactly constitutes light weight? WOW. This is way harder than i thought. Please help.

Interfacing is a stiff, sometimes non-woven fabric, that is used to give support and stiffening to various places on your garment. The places that need to be interfaced are collars, waist bands, plackets (ex-blouse & shirt opening such as ones that have button holes, but not necessarily), sometimes cuffs, sometimes under neck facings, to name a few places that it is used.

Sewers always keep a variety of different interfacing in their sewing box. Interfacing comes in different weights (or thicknesses), non-woven & woven, iron on & non-iron on, ones for stretch fabrics, to name a few types. The width on the bolt varies.

You were directed to buy 1 1/4 yards of Iron on Interfacing if the brand you get is between 22 and 25 inches wide. If you find it not as wide as 22 inches, you will need more than 1 1/14 yards. If it is wider than 25 inches, it all depends on how the pattern lays out whether you need less than the 1 1/4 yards. If this is the case, to be safe, I would still buy at least the 1 1/4 yards. Interfacing is not expensive and you canuse what is left over in future crafts.

You could actually uuse non-iron interfacing but since you are a beginner, I would stick with the pattern and buy the iron on type, so that everything works as the pattern tells you to. The iron on will be that you will follow the direction and iron the interfacing to the facing or waist band. Buy yourself a PRESSCLOTH, because you want to use that so not to gunk up your iron with any glue from the iron interfacing. I also would cover my ironing board with a cover or cloth so not to gunk up my ironing board cover.

The light weight interfacing is thinner and not as heavy and stiff as heavy or medium weight interfacing. You can feel it and the package or bolt will say what the weight is. The light weight one will feel softer and less crisp than the heavy weight one. The sewing store clerk can help you with this.

In the USA, one of the brands is called Pellon. There are most likely many other good brands.

All of this appears to be hard but not really. The pattern sheet can be intimidating, so I always got myself a sewing book such as Simplicity sewing Book to look up things mentioned on the Instruction sheet.

When I learned to sew, I would read the instruction sheet a few times and than read a simple sewing book. The Simplicity Book has been a good book for many years. Singer had a series of How to books also. Look for a book that has good pictures. Readers Digest is another book that has good pictures. Plus, a Video can help. Nancy's Notions has many videos. If you can record her shows on on sewing. Check your local tv guide.

By the way, I think that you started with a wrap dress that might be a little too hard for a first project. Save the pattern & if you already have the material, save it for your second or third project. The wrap dress is a little challenge to fit and since it is a dress, it would be better for after you've sewn a few garments.

I would start with a pull on skirt, no zippers. Then I would do a a-line or straight skirt with a back zipper. Next I would do a gathered skirt, maybe somewhere along the line learn how to put in a side zipper. Next i would do an easy top, no collar, slip on, not much fitting. A shell top could be a next project, with darts. No buttons yet but if you like a back zipper is ok since by now you have done a zipper in the skirt. Now after doing skirts and tops, you are ready for an easy a-line dress.

Eventually when you get confident, you can try button holes if your sewing machine has the capabilities. The wrap dress needs the button hole skill for threading the tie through. When choosing fabric, choose easy to sew fabric such as a woven cotton. Don't try silk or polyester yet. It is slippery. Do not try see thru fabrics since they require advanced skills.

There are some very good easy to use patterns from Simplicity, McCalls & Butterick to try. These patterns are usually 50% off at Walmart. Do get yourself an easy to use Sewing Book such as the Simplicity Book available at most Fabric stores. This book is under $20 if I recall.

In the long run, you will save $$$$ when sewing your own clothes. You won't see your self coming and going, no one will have your creation. My aunt told me that if you total the price of your supplies (fabric, etc), you should have created an outfit worth at least 3 times as expensive in Ready to Wear. Some People Claim the formula is up to 6 times materials=Ready to Wear Price. As your sewing skill increases, the value of your finished garment increases.

So, if I pay $25 for materials, pattern etc, the garment should be worth at least $75 maybe $150, Ready to Wear. With that savings, you can buy nice shoes and handbags.

Eventually, if you find that you are really enjoying sewing and if you decide to save money to buy an fancy machine, you can get a Top of the Line machine that will embroider and do many other sewing stiches. Machine Embroidery Combo Machines run from $2000 used to $8000 for the latest model. There are ones that are as low as $1000 which are powered by your PC. So, once you save money sewing your wardrobe, you can put the savings into one of these NEW fancy schmancy Sewinng Embroidery machines. But that is a nother subject.

JosyMaude

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