sewing gathered sleeves
All About Mens Suit
Mens Suit’s Collar and Lapel
Suit collars extending to the front part of the chest area are known as lapels. Lapels and collars are widely modified mens suits for change suit fashion. The collar snugs tightly around your neck without buckling. One half inch of the dress shirt should be visible under the suit collar.
Standard lapel width should be 3 to 4 inches. Most importantly, it should be proportionate to the overall size of the Mens suit as well as the distance between the chests to the shoulder.
Lapels have to fall flat on your chest. They should not buckle or bunch up. In general, lapels should have the end tip about halfway between the suit’s top sleeve and collar.
Pocket Style for Men Suit
Pockets are important in mens suits because its styles can vary on different suits.
A popular tailoring for pockets is the besom. It is an inset pocket sewn inside the garment with access through a narrow welted slit-type opening.
Three types of pockets are popular on suits are slit pockets, flap pockets and high quality pockets. Slit pockets represents a slit style which gives a clean finish on the suit’s hip area. Usually the slit pockets are jetted at the opening of the pockets. Flap pockets are additional fabric on covering the outside of the pocket opening. A high quality pocket allows both a slit pocket and flap pocket. It is required to be double-besomed so that it becomes a slit pocket when the flap is inserted into the pocket. It gives alternate looks on a single suit.
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Vent in Mens Suit
In Mens suit, vents are vertical slit openings creating flaps at the lower back of suits.
Vents are tailored to provide freedom and space for movement around the hip area of the suit. Without a vent, it can cause the suit to crumble and feel tight at the hip area.
Vents should have the one of the flaps overlap the other by about ¾ inch and not reveal the pants through it.
The three popular types of vents in suits are single vent, double vent and vent-less.
In single vents, the slit opening is at the center lower back of the suit. This is a typical look found among American-style suit.
In double vents, vents are cut symmetrically on both sides of the hip area of the men suit. It provides more freedom of movement than single vents. It also emphasizes the lines of the body.
In Vent-less there is no vent. Ventless suit can restrict movement like raising your arm or sitting. It is more suitable for slimmer man.
Button in Mens Suit
Buttons involves the most handling during the wearing experience especially when fastening and unfastening.
Plastic buttons are not suitable in suits. Select natural horn, pearl, or bone buttons in men suits. Mother-of-pearl, metal, or ceramics are other types of button for Mens suit.
Check that the closure is tight when buttoned. There should not be puckering of fabrics around the fastened buttons. Such puckering would mean unleveled sewing of buttons and button holes.
Mens suits are available in 1 button, 2 button, 3 button and 4 button suits.
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Shoulder Padding in Mens Suits
Generally most suits have padding and the thickness of shoulder pads depends on the Mens shoulder and body shape.
Slightly thicker shoulder pads would be suitable for slope shoulder men to make the suit look leveled.
Heavy padding will not be suitable for men with wide broad shoulders.
Armhole and Sleeve style in Men Suit
Armholes are the inside of your sleeves where you slip your arm in.
Generally high arm holes would give suit a nice drape.
The armholes should be wide enough for easy movement of arms.
An important advice about sleeve style in suit is they should end at about ½ to ¼ inches before the dress shirt cuffs worn within.
Generally the sleeve will end at mid-point of your wrist bone.
Mens Suits Pants
Mens suits encompassing the pants are the drape, the pleats and the cuffs.
Drape of the pants over your lower body should be smooth and floats over your legs.
The length of the rise complements your height. Taller men will suit higher rise while shorter men should settle for lower rise.
In mens suit pants, there are 3 types of pleats such as single pleat, double pleat, and pleatless flat front.
Cuffs are upward folds made at the end of the pants. It is recommended that your cuffs be 1½ - 1¾ inch wide depending on the Mens overall size. Generally pants cuffs look better on taller man.
To make shorter man look even shorter with cuff pants. Make sure the cuff at the pants end fall with ease without too much gather.
About the Author
Franco Alda writes for
http://www.ahfashion.com , the online super store for Mens suits
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Vogue 8797 DRESS WITH GATHERED SLEEVE COLLAR BOW 6-8-10 $3.89 |
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Misses Dress Pattern 9127 Sleeve Vary Overskirt Gather $7.93 |
How to make a Cossack Coat?
I would like to sew a coat similiar to the ones worn by the Czarist Cossacks in the 19th century. Are there any patterns that can be adapted? The coat is close fitting around the torso, with a flowing skirt and bell-shaped or gathered sleeves and would include piping and cartridge loops. Any tips on making a Russian coat like this?
Try "Folkwear" patterns. They use to be very popular in the '60s and '70s. They have a lot of authentic patterns for all kinds of old style clothes. You can do a search for "Folkwear" and still find a lot of them available. I think they may have started printing new ones again.
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Vogue 8797 DRESS WITH GATHERED SLEEVE COLLAR BOW 6-8-10 $3.89 |
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Misses Dress Pattern 9127 Sleeve Vary Overskirt Gather $7.93 |
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BURDA SEW PATTERN 8050 TOPS GATHERED AT BUST SLEEVELESS OR FLUTTER SLEEVE 16-28 $4.99 |
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Kandel Knits Pattern Overlay Tri Sleeve Gathered or Smooth Cap szs 36 thru 42 $8.99 |
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Ladies See and Sew Pattern for gathered jumper and short sleeved top, size 12-16 $0.99 |
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McCALLS Pattern 2095 Toddler Girls Dresses Sleeveless Puff Sleeve Gathered Skirt $5.00 |
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BUTTERICK PATTERN B5562 Misses Pullover Top Drape Collar Gathered Sleeves XS S M $6.50 |
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Misses Front Button Dress Sewing Pattern Collar Sleeve Vary Gathered Skirt 8406 $7.14 |
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Misses Front Button Dress Sewing Pattern Collar Sleeve Vary Gathered Skirt 8406 $7.14 |
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Misses Front Button Dress Sewing Pattern Collar Sleeve Vary Gathered Skirt 8406 $7.14 |
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McCalls Pattern 5328 Petite Unlined Gather Yoke Sleeve Cotton Jacket Blouse 4-10 $9.99 |
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Childs Formal Dress Pattern 3928 Gathered Sleeve Vary $6.74 |
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Vogue 7471 sz 12 Pleated Front gathered yoke blouse top 60's full sleeve pattern $7.00 |
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MCCALLS 4148 STAND COLLAR TUNICS TOPS DROP-GATHERED SLEEVE SEWING PATTERN 8-14 $3.99 |
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Childs Dress Pinafore Sewing Pattern Sleeve Vary Gathered Skirt Tie Pocket 2989 $6.74 |
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Misses Dress Pattern 8744 Gathered Button Sleeve Vary $6.07 |
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Misses Dress Pattern 8744 Gathered Button Sleeve Vary $6.07 |
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Style 4637 misses sz 14 SEW PATTERN tucked front button gathered sleeve blouses $3.59 |
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PATTERN M 5280 BISHOPE SLEEVE GATHERED RUFFLED SWAG $9.50 |
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Vintage 80s Misses Dress Sewing Pattern Yoke Gather Short Puff Sleeve Hem Tucks $7.14 |
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PATTERN STY4444 SHIRT DRESS GATHERED TO YOKE PATCH POCKETS LONG SLEEVES SZ 14 $14.95 |
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Misses Lined Jackets Pattern 5594 Gathered Sleeve Vary $6.07 |
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PATTERN S8594 CHILD'S' PULLOVER DRESS GATHERED TO YOLK W/PUFF SLEEVES SZ 4,5,6 $13.00 |
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Butterick 6676 GATHERED DOLMAN SLEEVE CHAMISE DRESS`MISSES' 8 10 12 SEW PATTERN $2.07 |
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Misses Costume Sewing Pattern Lined Jacket Dress Raglan Sleeve Dart Gather 5405 $7.93 |