body measurement chart sewing
Fashion/Sewing questions?? please help :(?
- if measurements fall between two sizes on the chart, would you select the larger or smaller size?
- would 2 women who have the same bust, waist, and hip measurements necessarily be the same body type? why?
- briefly, explain how you should go about finding your pattern size.
Depends on the size involved and the location of the problematic measurements. And this is more than most beginning textbooks explain.
1) Generally, it's easier to refit the shoulders and neckline and waistline areas than the bust... so I'd buy by the bust measurement in most instances. Pants and skirts are easier to buy by the hip measurement and refit the waist.
2) Patterns are produced in a range of sizes, but they start out with a master pattern in the middle of the size range that is then "graded" up and down by a series of rules to produce the other sizes. For instance, if you were going to produce a size range of XS-S-M-L-XL, your basic pattern would be size M and you'd grade it up to L and XL and down to S and XS. The farther away you get from the basic size, the more distortions are introduced into the pattern... which is why you'll often see larger ladies with necklines way out on their shoulders and shoulder seams down around their elbows -- the patterns have been overgraded, and the grading rules used allowed the pattern shoulders and neckline to grow far beyond normal anatomical limits. (Hint to designers of grading rules -- your bones do not get longer because you put on weight!). I'd be more likely to measure the armscyes and shoulder seam lengths and choose the size based on those for someone who is truly between sizes.
As to the measurement question on body types... consider two women, 34-24-26, both 5 ft 6". The first one wears a D cup bra and the second wears an A cup bra. A fitted or semi-fitted pattern will not fit the two of them the same way. Especially since most patterns are designed for a B cup.
Consider also two women buying pants patterns... the length of the piece that goes between the legs ("crotch extension" in pattern-speak) depends on the depth of the body front to back. A pair of pants designed for someone who has 36" hips and is wide from side to side but narrow front to back will produce camel-toe on a woman who is thicker front to back. In some cases, it may be preferable to buy a larger size pattern for the woman who is thicker front to back and refit the rest of the pattern. And putting her pattern on the woman who is not so thick front to back, though of the very same hip measurement, will produce baggy butt in the pants.
Yes, same measurements. But different body types.
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Patternmaking for Fashion Design (3rd Edition) $99.00 Third Edition Patternmaking for Fashion Design Hardcover book by Helen Joseph-Armstrong Copyright 2000... |
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Metric Pattern Cutting $49.99 Since the first edition of Metric Pattern Cutting was published in 1975 to provide a straightforward introduction to flat pattern cutting, it has become the established textbook on the subject.The fourth edition continues to offer an introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting, with a range of good basic blocks and examples of their application to garments. The original blocks and many... |
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